March 2024
BURGUNDY REPORT by Bill Nanson
by bill Nanson
Milcent – 2022
Tasted with Alexandre Milcent in ‘Chichée,’ 22 January 2024.
Alexandre had just taken delivery of a nice big jar – it had water in it when I took my picture (right) but it was soon going to have 2023 in it !!
Alexandre on 2023:
“I was happy at the end – once all was in – because we had quantity and it looks like we have quality too – I found it a complicated vintage though – complicated for working the soil due the extra rain in some periods, it was necessary to work a lot of weekends because of that!”
Alexandre on 2022:
“We had less volume but a decent volume. We had more dryness and despite that, I think the quality was good. In the cuverie all went without a problem, the malos were done by the end of December – I like the perfumes. I think the warm year has allowed the wines to ‘show themselves’ from very early on.”
February 2024
CONCOURS DES VINS CHABLIS
Domaine Milcent
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume 2022
Médaille d'Or
Le 38ème Concours des Vins de Chablis s’est déroulé le samedi 20 janvier 2024 au BIVB à Chablis, sous la présidence d’une figure de la sommellerie française : Jean-Luc Jamrozik, président de l’Association des Sommeliers de Paris. 27 médailles ont été décernées sur 335 échantillons présentés.
Télécharger la fiche PDFJanuary 2024
DECANTER by Andy Howard
Tasted by Andy Howard MW
(at Chablis, 16 Oct 2023)
Chablis 2022
91
Cool palate. Focused, lots of energy and drive here. A classy example which has managed to keep the ripeness in great balance with the underlying minerality and acidity of the Chablis terroir. Very nicely done. Not a blockbuster but refined. Domaine Milcent is located in Chichée.
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2028
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2022
89
A Vaillons with plenty of appeal. Fleshy stone fruit on the palate, zesty lime and lemon acidity to balance. A little abrupt on the finish, but already drinking well.
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2028
Petit Chablis 2022
88
Greener characters on both nose and palate. Appealing, fleshy stone fruit cut with vibrant acidity. Would benefit from another six months in bottle. This domaine is located in Chichée.
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2026
November 2023
Neal Martin - Chablis 2022
Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2022
89
The 2022 Chablis Vielles Vignes, which comes from 55-year-old vines, is much more austere on the nose than the regular cuvée, leaving me wishing there was more fruit. Closed up for the day? The palate is balanced and more expressive, with touches of Golden Delicious and red apple, quite spicy towards the finish. I feel that the aromatics need a few months to open, so I keep the faith.
Chablis Village 2022
85
The 2022 Chablis Village has a focused, oyster shell-tinged bouquet that takes time to open in the glass. The palate is fresh with a keen thread of acidity, quite sharp and citric (I wonder if this underwent some acidification?). There is a commendable focus on the finish, even if it is a bit short.
Petit Chablis 2022
84
The 2022 Petit Chablis has a terse, stony bouquet of Granny Smith and freshly sliced pear aromas. The palate is well-balanced but lacks lift and seems content to doggy paddle on the rather simplistic finish. But it's a step up from the previous vintage.
October 2023
GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2024
Domaine Milcent
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2021
* *
Un domaine familial depuis plusieurs générations commandé par une authentique ferme bourguignonne et dirigée depuis 2011 par Delphine, Christophe et Alexandre Milcent.
« L’empreinte du terroir » : c’est la devise du domaine pour qualifier ses vins. À cet effet, ce superbe Vaillons peut être présenté comme une référence. Son nez à dominante florale est très élégant, agrémenté de fines notes mentholées. La bouche est tout aussi délicate, s’exprimant sur la fraîcheur apportée par des notes citronnées et une belle tension minérale. On respire le terroir en effet.
♦ 2025-2033
August 2023
La Revue du Vin de France n°672
Domaine Milcent
Chablis 2021
89/100
Mûr et riche en nez, il offre un fruit juteux marqué par une note acidulée donnant une belle accroche en bouche.
March 2023
BURGUNDY REPORT by Bill Nanson
2021 Petit Chablis
A broad nose that’s a little spiced. A width of quite powerful flavours, mineral too. A modest rigour then floral perfumed to finish.
2021 Chablis
Also a fresh and vibrant nose. Some extra depth and a slightly more generous shape – floral infused – that’s a very good wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A nose that’s a little more direct – like all the wines here just with tank elevage. Hmm, young vines but clearly there is more interest here and a delicious width of flavour too – simply a lovely wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Also an open nose but today it lacks a little differentiation between the wines. More intense, more mineral in style. Broad and again very tasty in this finishing width. Another very tasty wine.
2021 Chablis 1er Beauroy
This nose is more direct. A more chalky width – more mineral in style too, slightly floral in the finish. That’s certainly a stronger, more impressive wine than the easy but delicious previous 1ers.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
Here’s a different nose the width has an extra mineral quality to it. Mouthfilling – fuller but more airy than powerful. Melting wth very tasty flavour. That’s another very good and very tasty wine